Dearest transglobalistas—
Here we are, yet again, at the end of yet another month in Africa. Seems to me it’s time for another two-wheeled national circumnavigation, this time in, say, Kenya, and on a 150cc Boxer. I arranged the rental via a friend of a friend of a friend of a guy whose friend works at my current hostel. The bike arrived in the area this afternoon, so tomorrow morning at 8am geht’s los.
Unlike the Ugandan route, Kenya has a few more security hotspots to be aware of (read: drawn to)–due to its shared border with Somalia, but I’ve been asking around and gathering intel. I’m also limited in some respects due to the country’s many game reserves being off limits to motorcycle traffic. It’s like a navigational jigsaw puzzle, and if I put it together correctly a few giraffes and elephants might appear.
Might.
But figuring all that out, and just seeing what happens, is a big part of the fun.
Here in Mombasa’s Old Town, however, things have been fantastic so far–a bit of a mashup. You’ve got the narrow alleys and markets of Marrakech, the smells of Indian spices, the sounds of Islam, the music of Africa, and more tuk-tuks than you can shake a stick at. Soooooo much great Swahili and Indian food, with sunrise over the Indian Ocean every morning and incredible street food on most corners. (For my part I avoid fancy restaurants and streets where tourists gather. Instead, I eat my breakfast of chapati, beans, and African tea with a group of laughing, long-suffering women who prepare food on a sidewalk in a hidden alleyway.) Everyone greets you with “Jambo!”; the afternoons are hot; the mosquitoes are vicious at dusk; and I could easily stay here for months getting into the rhythm of the place and following up on the myriad invitations I’ve already received.
As if the fascinating humans weren’t enough, I’ve also been befriended by a troop of vervet monkeys who live outside my window. And I mean _right_ outside my window. Over the past three days they’ve started gathering outside my windowsill and taking peanuts directly from my hand. (The photo above is taken directly at the foot of my bunk bed.)
And with that, I bid you adieu, hasta la proxima, namaste, ciao, auf wiedersehen, and peach out.
Hugs & kisses,
—jim
PS
If you enjoy the adventures I’ve been bringing you for the past 12 years, and would like to help keep this Little Engine that Could going, please consider joining us over at Patreon.com/transglobalist Any level of participation makes a significant difference. And there’s a LOT of excitement coming in the next few months: Kenya cont’d, Uganda II, Rwanda, and Haiti–before heading back “home” to Colombia in Feb or March of 2025.
Join us!
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