Retrospectiva Quiteña (2023), Parte I

[ Quito, Ecuador]

Amigos estimados—

I’ll be leaving Ecuador in a few days, heading north to Cali for my first extended stay in Colombia. There is much to share about future plans, but I thought a brief retrospective of my stay here in Quito would be more apt.

In the foregoing half-year as a temporary Quiteño, I have lived through Carnaval, Holy Week, an attempted presidential impeachment and the subsequent, historic dissolution of the National Assembly (Ecuador’s national legislative body)—still ongoing. I got to know the rainy season, life in the countryside, the gorgeous páramo, sections of the volcanic corridor and its accompanying seismic activity. I completed my first travelbook. I have made many new friends, reconnected with several old ones, and become intimately familiar with a big swath of the city—thanks to Fargo and my terminal case of interminable curiosity. (Looking for the best shawarma in town? A scrumptious Indian lunch? Salsa in the park? Egyptian-style hummus? I can help!)

In other words, I’ve gotten comfortable, settled in, and learned the lay of the land. Quito is a beautiful city, welcoming, easy, historic and vibrant—but my time here is at an end, at least for 2023.

For Part I I’m including a few images from my neighborhood, and the first part of my stay, along with the usual caption-stories. I hope you enjoy them. Part II will be along in a day or two.

Until then,

I remain,
Your friendly neighborhood Transglobalist guy,
—-jim

I discovered the Artífice Cafetería my first full day in Quito. It became my de facto office for the next three months as I worked towards completion of Travelbook #1. When (not if) you eventually make your way to Quito, be sure to stop in and say "hola" to Christhian and the entire Artífice gang.
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The centro historico is dominated by two landmarks--one to the south, one to the north and each on its respective hill. To the north is this beast, the Basílica del Voto Nacional. The view from atop those towers is probably the most famous view of Quito. (For those on Patreon, I did a Zoom walking tour that started from that vantage point.)
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To the south is the lovely Virgen of the Panecillo. The walk up that hill is also the most reliable location in Quito for petty theft, beyond a certain (and well-marked) point.
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My home in Quito. It's my Ecuadorian Apex Guest House (my home in Pokhara, Nepal). It's run by a wonderful family, the location is unbeatable, as is the price. Be sure to tell Mario et al that Jim sent you!
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Another major landmark in the Centro Historico--Santo Domingo Church. This is less than 100 meters from the front door in the previous pic, and the spire of the church is always visible from my window.
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In the other direction from my hostel is the Plaza Grande. This shot was taken on a stormy afternoon, with a tilt-shift lens (hence the blur), but it's an absolutely gorgeous square. One way I know it's time to move on for a while is that I have started to take the beauty for granted (I walk through it multiple times every day and hardly notice it any more).
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Between my place and Plaza Grande is the beginning of the pedestrian zone which comprises the majority of the Centro Historico. This duo has been a constant during my stay, and--unlike many of the local street musicians--they're good. (Quito has some of the most, errr, dubious street musicians I've ever encountered, but that's another story--and there ARE good performers as well!)
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A street performer with a cool mechanical trick. Don't know how these work but he was suspended somehow through the rifle...like a mime suspended in air. He was also clearly just passing through: a couple of weekends and then no mas.
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On Saturdays and Sundays the pedestrian area is lined with tables of handmade goods. This is one of my friends who sells steampunk paraphernalia.
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Coffeeshop buskers from the early days. Also just passing through. I never saw them again after my first weekend.
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One of the most impressive churches in my neighborhood: Iglesia Católica San Francisco. It was (is?) also a convent, and the entire complex is massive. This was taken my first week here, and it is characteristic in another way: the unhoused local passed out on the steps in front. But that's another, long, involved story for another time.
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Nacho. The Colombian artist who was preparing some new cement-and-paint artwork to adorn a newly renovated hotel close to Artífice Cafetería.
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These guys are Cucuruchos--part of the Franciscan order and ubiquitous during Holy Week. Purple or not, the visuals are inescapably Ku Klux Klan for any US citizen. Creepy AF to me, and I'm about as white as it gets. Of course there is absolutely ZERO tie to the KKK, and I have slowly gotten used to seeing them (a bit like the first time you see swastikas in a Hindu country--it's a hard-to-shake association).
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The imposing basilica, taken from atop the hill. Don't know (or care) who the historic figure is in the statue, but if you look closely you can see that someone took the time to climb him and put an orange peel on his stuffy, sanctimonious nose. 😉
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Looking back at the Virgen del Panecillo from near the basilica. Central Quito is, well, it ain't flat, folks. But it is one off the more beautiful historic centers I can think of. At least to the extent that anything with a colonial history can be considered "beautiful."
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There is a great deal of evangelical fervor in central Quito, with many street preachers selling their particular brand of faith to passersby, especially on Sundays. This woman is my favorite, by far. First, because she's a she--which isn't so common. And second because she's loud, wonderfully animated, and in-your-face. The steps behind here are of the Catedral Metropolitana de Quito--one of the main buildings lining the Plaza Grande.
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A little mini-parade on Fat Tuesday (Mardi Gras) during Carnaval.
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The Transglobalist
Photographer, cyclist, paraglider pilot, backpacker, skydiver, writer, explorer, musician, hitchhiker, digital nomad, and American dissident.

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