[ Tarfaya, Morocco ]
The ride out of Tan-Tan was supposed to be a straightforward 24km jaunt to the Atlantic coast…a last climb and some morning crosswinds with the payoff a 1000km tailwind and a sprint through the Sahara.
As I’ve described elsewhere, it turned into a spoke-breaking Ride-Break-Panic-Hitch-Repair sequence which began on this segment, just after cresting the final pre-Atlantic “pass” outside Tan-Tan. Even with the difficulties and frustration, it was exciting, and beautiful, and the Sahara began to reveal itself in all its massive, intimidating glory.
I arrived in Tarfaya—where Antoine de Saint Exupery was stationed from 1927-29—on my birthday and spent an extra day here. The hesitation is motivated partially by paranoia (what if my spokes are still not fixed??),partially by laziness, and partially by my body making demands as I force it grudgingly into tip-top shape. I mean, if I don’t stick around an extra day where will the requisite caloric overload come from? It’s a question of tajine vs. tuna can, and surely you can guess who wins that match-up.
Now comes the long push to Dakhla.